My Room

I have had a couple of questions about my accommodations this year at Svanholm.  The room I lovingly occupied on my last two visits is now inhabited full-time by a new community member.  She is a welcome addition to the community and I don’t begrudge her my former space, which she has appointed nicely.

This year, while still living in the manor house, instead of going up some stairs to get to my room, I go down a few to join the other guest volunteers in a community living situation.   I have lived in “Syderen”, as it is called, briefly twice before, so it is not unfamiliar to me.


Going through the entry and around a corner, one comes to a long hallway.  There are guest rooms to the right along the hallway…mine is down at the end around another corner.

20150712_130942On the way to my room one passes the communal kitchen, bathroom, and laundry room.



The kitchen is more than our kitchen, though, it is also our dining room (for breakfasts, Wednesday night home cooking, and weekend lunches), our lounge, and our study: a true multi-purpose room (and it is where the internet signal is most reliable). Tradition has it that guests leave messages on the walls (and now the ceiling) with impressions of their experience here.



Past the kitchen, if one looks out a window to the right, one has a view across the courtyard to the stairs that lead to my former living room.

20150712_130702Okay, almost to my room now.


Ta-dah!  Cozy, no?  It is actually quite spacious, with place enough for me to exercise using my big ball and room to store my things.  If you look closely,  you will see some precious items that waited in storage for me this past year and help to make it feel more like my space.



Oh, and I almost forgot…the view from my window:



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Back at (my second) home

As I predicted in my holiday posting, I returned to Svanholm in time to celebrate Sankt Hans and the summer solstice.  This year’s sojourn at my home away from home will run until the end of August, when my sister-in-law will join me for a couple of months of travel in Germany, Italy and Spain.


I will be gone from Saint Paul for a mere four months, but as I crossed my threshold at the Great Northern Lofts and turned out the lights on June 16th, it felt like it was going to be a long time before I would pass that way again.  Intellectually I know that four months disappears in an instant, but emotionally I feel a stronger tug this time.  What is the anchor pulling on my heart?  It is clear that over the past seven or eight months that I have been home in Saint Paul my friendships within the Great Northern Lofts have deepened.  I will miss our Chocolate Thursdays, our sibling dinners, our book club discussions, and our third Friday social hour.  I will also miss ushering at the Fitzgerald Theater, where I have been privileged to experience a wide variety of entertainment, from Prairie Home Companion to Kerri Miller interviewing author Erik Larson to the Wits comedy program.


I note another difference this time around…I am in a relationship with a man I met online.  After a couple of false starts with others, I have been dating John since January and we are a good match.  Not only does he like museums and theater as I do, but he also loves languages and staying fit.  Fluent in German, he often speaks and writes to me in that language, forcing me to exercise that part of my brain.  And he is currently in Norway, taking a six-week language course at the University of Oslo.  We will meet up in Norway at the end of July and travel back to Denmark so that he can experience a week of life on the farm before returning to Minnesota.


It has dawned on me that there is something else drawing on my heartstrings and making me a bit more reluctant to stay abroad so long this year: BOTH children are on the other side of the Atlantic from me!  One of the special things about my Danish experience in previous years has been the proximity to my daughter and while I won’t for a moment lament her return to the States, I will miss her presence this time around.  By the by, I traveled to Los Angeles twice this winter in order to spend some time with both Bryn and Dane.  It was an added treat to stay with my friend Mark and meet Brian, Bryn’s love interest.


My friend Mark, me, Dane, Bryn, and Brian enjoying some craft beer.

Well, I arrived at Svanholm after Cows’ Day and it nearly killed me to miss the event this April, I do love it so. But my sister had waited patiently for two years for me to stay home and partake with her in the St. Croix Valley Pottery Tour. I have to admit that while it was no Cows’s Day, the tour was fabulous. Over the course of Mother’s Day weekend, Barb, her fellow Michigan potter friend Joan, and I visited all seven studios and enjoyed the work of 53 varied artists. Here you can see us with our loot.


After a week and two days at Svanholm, I can report that all is well with my world. It has been marvelous to reconnect with friends here and return to volunteering in the big kitchen.  It is almost as though I never left, although it has been nearly a year since I was here last.  The passage of time is easily seen in the growth and maturation of the children, who are as precious (and precocious) as ever.  There have been a couple of physical changes, the addition of a giant chess board in honor of a member’s 70th birthday, and the addition of chickens complete with a hen house, for example, but the vibe remains unchanged.





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2014 Holiday Blog

December 2014 finds me in Saint Paul, enjoying the company of my neighbors in the Great Northern Lofts. While I posted briefly from Svanholm and wrote about hosting my Japanese friend Chika over the summer, and our subsequent trip together to Japan and South Korea, I feel like Svanholm deserves more coverage.

Cows’ Day fell on April 21st this year. As I explained last year, Cows’ Day is the day when all the organic farms in Denmark let their cows out from the barns to the fields for the first time in the spring. The normally slow-moving cows are so excited to go outside, that they stampede out of the barn, run into the field and “dance”. It is quite a sight. So much so that thousands of people come from Copenhagen to watch and Svanholm sells various foods and drinks in order to make some money that day. I was asked to run “Katy’s Coffee Shop” in the old boutique space, so I recruited my daughter and seven current and former guest volunteers to staff it with me for the four hours we were expected to be open. Last year about 5,000 visitors came out for the event, so imagine our surprise when 10,000 showed up this year! My front line staff dealt with the customers while I spent four hours frantically brewing one pot of coffee after the other to try and keep up with demand.


This year was especially fun in that I had several visitors over the course of my four-month stay. As always, it was a treat to have my daughter come from Copenhagen for visits and my wild and crazy Swedish friends also came to stir things up. In addition, my cousin Henry and his wife Robyn from the Bay Area stopped by and my friends Tal from Minnesota and Mark from L.A. stayed a little longer. Tal and I ventured over to Malmö so that he could add Sweden to his list of countries visited.


My friend Mark arrived in time to help out with the sheep shearing and stayed for about ten days, so we went to some places I had never been before, including Bakken, which bills itself as the world’s oldest amusement park. We tried out the wooden roller coaster, which we were assured has been rebuilt since it was first constructed.



If anyone is wondering about whether I ended up running in the Copenhagen Marathon…I didn’t. A two month training schedule is aggressive at any age and at 58 I should have known better. I developed a painful case of planter fasciitis, hitch hiking back to the farm when I finally gave in. The joy that came from the experience, though, was that my loaner bike took me on some great explorations in the countryside. I covered some beautiful territory, inhaling the fragrance of blooming rape seed. I stayed at Svanholm through mid-summer’s and the summer solstice celebration, flying home with Chika on June 30th.


I returned to Minnesota in time to enjoy my niece Kirstine’s wedding at the beginning of July. Both of my children came back to attend the festivities which took place in my sister-in-law’s back yard. After a torrential downpour things proceeded smoothly and a good time was had by all.


November included a week-long trip to visit my sister Barb in Michigan to enjoy her Potters’ Guild annual fall sale. Barb has been making beautiful functional pottery for years. I am grateful for and proud to use the plates, bowls and mugs she has given me. This year she started experimenting with ceramic reliefs. She had a lot of adorable chickens at the sale and one really cute giraffe with leg warmers.



November and Thanksgiving also presented the excuse to head to Cincinnati for a week to catch up with my brother Mike, My son Dane joined me there and Barb drove down on Friday to spend the weekend, so all was good.


Since this posting ostensively takes the place of a holiday newsletter, a brief update on my kids is in order: Dane is doing well, still working for Broadcom and living in Orange County, California. In addition to seeing him at the wedding in July and over Thanksgiving, I was happy to visit with him both coming and going from Japan. He continues to practice various martial arts and is still committed to creative writing when he can tear himself away from Netflix. I am counting down the days until he arrives for the Christmas holidays.


Bryn finished her master’s in Technological and Socio-Economic Planning in mid-August and left Denmark in mid-September. She is moving to the Los Angeles area in mid-January, but is currently enjoying a stopover in Vietnam where her love interest has been residing. Brian is an old friend from Swarthmore, originally from L.A., and he is looking forward to making the move back with her. It will be terrific to have her on this continent again!


Some have asked if having both children in southern California means I will be moving there. Others have asked if no longer having a daughter in Denmark means that I won’t be returning to Svanholm. No on both counts. I love both my homes (the condo in Saint Paul and whatever room I get assigned at Svanholm) and feel lucky to be part of two special communities. My current plan is to enjoy the Twin Cities through the winter and spring and return to Svanholm by the summer solstice in June. I will likely be there through the end of August, in case anyone wants to visit this year.

Happy holidays, everyone. Please stay in touch.

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Detour to Korea

My Japanese friend Chika and I took a break from our tour of Japan to spend a week visiting friends in South Korea. I already sensed on the first day that one week would not be long enough. Oh well, I guess I will need to come back.

We flew on Peach Airlines from Osaka to Incheon airport, outside of Seoul. We had good instructions from our friend Taehyoung about which train to take to which station, so after retrieving my suitcase, hitting up an ATM for cash, renting a wifi “egg” for the week, picking up maps, and buying and loading our transit cards, we were on our way!


We were immediately impressed by how friendly Koreans are. On our ride into Seoul, we were chatted up by a 71-year-old retired electrical engineer who worked in Montevideo, Minnesota (!) and nows travels with his wife back and forth between the U.S. and Korea, visiting family on both continents. As I wondered aloud whether the river we were passing over was fresh or salt water, the woman next to me explained Seoul’s geography. Her English was as fluent as the engineer’s; it turns out she has been living in London and is engaged to someone there.

With instant messages back and forth to Taehyoung, who was three hours away in the countryside, we arrived successfully at Hongik University station and met his friend Kwangdae who led us back to yet another friend’s vacant apartment (well, vacant except for five cats). The cats’ owner was travelling and we were welcome to stay there. Such kindness. Kwangdae fed us and then took us on a lovely walk along the Hangang River and through a lively market area before returning with us via bus back to the apartment.


Taehyoung arrived the next day and the three of us met up with our mutual friend Jurgen. We attempted some sight-seeing, but it was raining pretty hard. Our walk took us past the American Embassy and Gwanghwamun Square, where families of passengers killed aboard the Sewol ferry in April are conducting a hunger strike. A volunteer explained that they are asking for a transparent investigation into the tragedy, with criminal consequences for those found at fault.


We waited out the rain at a Starbucks (they are plentiful here), then resumed our tour past the Gyeonbokgung Palace and over to Insa-dong Street, which is a prime shopping and eating area. Jurgen had already treated us to lunch and coffee, then Taehyoung treated us to dinner at a cozy, back alley establishment where he had once worked and that we would never have found on our own.



Our experience in the bustle of Seoul was a sharp contrast to the calmness we encountered the following day when we travelled with Taehyoung to the countryside. Taehyoung works for the National Trust of Korea at a site on the Dong River that was slated to be dammed up and flooded. The Trust now owns the property and is preserving its natural beauty.


There are many farms in the valley, growing apples, ginseng, red hot peppers, edamame beans and peanuts.



There were the beginning signs of autumn.


Our friend Jin arrived on the weekend from Seoul with her boyfriend Jiho and his dog Genie. They cooked us an amazing fish dinner and drove us back to Seoul the following day. For those readers unfamiliar with Korean food, I will give you two words: spicy and delicious. There is good reason that the valley is filled with fields of chili peppers.


Our drive back to Seoul took us past some spectacular scenery. As is true of Japan, Korea is a country of mountains. Such awesome beauty.


When I ask my fellow Svanholm guest friends whether they find the Danish landscape boring, since that country is so flat and theirs is so mountainous, they uniformly surprise me by replying that to the contrary, they find the wide open vistas exciting. They like being able to see far off to the horizon. I agree that Denmark is beautiful; I am just surprised that they think so.

Our final day in Seoul was devoted to shopping. Jin was nice enough to meet us and take us through both the Gwangang Market, an old market area filled with stalls selling traditional Korean wear, fabrics, bedding, and street food, and the area around the Dongdaemun Design Plaza, an ultra-modern facility that looks like a cross between a space ship and the Goodyear blimp.



For my transit-oriented friends, I can report that Seoul’s metro system is very efficient and well marked in both Korean and English. And in spite of the fact that it was Japan’s subway system that was the site of a deadly sarin attack in 1995, every station in Seoul is equiped for such a potentiality.


It has been a very rewarding detour, I am glad that we came. I love reconnecting with friends and I return to Japan impressed by Korea’s landscape and the kindness of its citizens.

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On the Road Again: Japan

I was reminded by a friend lately that not everyone is on Facebook, so quite a few people are in the dark about my latest adventure. Apologies.

I left Svanholm at the end of June after a fulfilling four-month stay, volunteering once again in the kitchen and feeling embraced by the community. How I wish I could be in two places at once. I so love Svanholm and also love my life in Saint Paul.

The feeling of over-consumption upon my return was moderated this time by the fact that I was joined by my Japanese friend Chika. And, in fact, my daughter Bryn, Chika and I all arrived on the same day and my son arrived on the following one. The kids were home for their cousin Kirstine’s wedding and spent a week and a half welcoming me home. Four people in my condo was cozy and I loved it.


Chika and I settled into somewhat of a rountine over the next 6 or 7 weeks. We found a free English class for her, which met from 10 – 12:30, Monday – Thursday. I would get up and go exercise, and she would generally be headed out the door or gone by the time I got back. When she returned we would have lunch and work our way through the list of attractions I had put together. We also spent a couple of days in Duluth, a couple more in a cabin near Ely, and a couple at my friend Beth’s cabin near Cold Spring. All in all, it was a good Minneosta summer.

Split Rock Lighthouse

Cabin 26 at Camp Van Vac near Ely

Sunset on Big Lake

After the State Fair at the end of August, we packed our bags and flew to San Francisco. We enjoyed the hospitality of my cousin and friends up and down the coast, renting a car and staying in Alameda, Santa Barbara, Los Angeles and Carlsbad. Here we are in Disneyland, meeting Mickey Mouse with my son Dane and my friend Mark.


On September 9th we boarded a Singapore Airlines flight bound for Narita, Japan!

Chika has taken extremely good care of me in Japan. I simply follow her around and enjoy myself. No worries about which train or how to buy a ticket or what food to eat. I feel very fortunate. Fortunate also to be visiting other friends that we both made during our stays at Svanholm. It is very special to reconnect and cement these relationships instead of allowing them to fade.


Because of our rigorous travel schedule, lack of internet connectivity, and placing a priority on socializing over posting, I have been quickly uploading photos to Facebook when I have had a chance. A Journeywoman blog posting takes a little more time and though, hence my silence. I am currently taking advantage of a train ride to do some writing, but am not quite sure when I will be able to upload it, or if I will have time to add photos (they are the best part, I know).

Some thoughts and observations about Japanese culture while I am underway:

1) There is a strong food culture here. Every town and region has a dish or two or three for which it is known and when the Japanese travel they like to make sure to sample these local foods. In spite of Philly cheesesteak, Chicago style pizza, and San Francisco sour dough bread, the United States does not have a highly developed food culture.


2) The train network is incredible: multiple train companies provide service that reaches far and wide. And what is even more incredible is that the trains run on time. There are trains leaving every few minutes on multiple tracks, on time and full. Which gets me to my next point.


3) It is crowded here. Population density leads not only to efficient transit options, but also generally smaller houses and apartments as well as busy sidewalks and highways. It is noisy, too. There are recorded voices at the train stations, in department stores (“The escalators can be crowded. Stand two abreast. Parents hold onto your children. Do not walk on the escalator. “), even on public streets (e.g. announcing festval events and times).


4) The Japanese have an affinity for cartoon characters. They are EVERYWHERE. Each town has its own chacter mascot, most museums and tourist attractions have them, too. They appear on buttons, cookies, zipper pulls, towels, socks, you name it. Which leads me to my next point


5) The Japanese may be even bigger consumers than Americans. There certainly are more shops, more vending machines, and more opportunities to shop than I am used to. There are shops surrounding most temples and the train stations are packed with retailers. In fact, many train stations are fully incorparated into large shopping malls.


6) The Japanese are warm, friendly and generous. I have been overwhelmed by the kindness I have been shown by my Japanese friends and their families and I hope that I can return the hospitality in the future.

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Back at Svanholm

March 16, 2014. I am writing this post on the fifth anniversary of the death of my husband and soulmate, Mark Lindblad. So much has happened since his passing that five years seems like a long time. However, he is still so present with me, that it seems like just yesterday that he was smiling in my direction. Odd how time can seem eternal and instaneous at once.

Last year on this day I remember it was cold and snow was still on the ground here at Svanholm. My neighbor Elisabeth could sense that I was a bit blue and we went for a chilly walk through the forest to the highest point in the area. The wind was blowing and we talked about the losses we both mourned. In contrast, this winter has been the mildest Denmark has seen in a long while and when I visited the same spot last weekend, it provided quite a different view.


I also noticed evidence of the huge storm that hit the area in December with hurricane force winds. Many trees fell in that storm and it was obvious that workers have busy cleaning up in the intervening months.


I have been back at Svanholm for two weeks now. While I didn’t like leaving my Minnesota friends and neighbors behind, it was a treat to leave one of the coldest winters on record and step into spring.


It has been wonderful to be back with my Svanholm friends. I have the same room and neighbors as I had before and everything is quite cozy.


Life in the big kitchen is calmer than when I left last August, as the team is finally adequately staffed. In fact, it looks as though I will have time to regularly make cheese once a week. Tuesdays have become my cheese day and I have already made a batch of feta and a batch of dill havarti, both of which have the advantage that they can be eaten fresh and don’t require a lot of aging.


Life here is much the same, that is the beauty of this place. Last weekend I got reacquainted with the sheep, as it was moving day for them. They needed to be escorted from the field where they spent the winter to the lambing area. Uffe’s new sheep dog handled himself quite well and it was a relatively quick and easy experience. A few of us waited next to the road the sheep needed to cross in order to stop traffic, while Uffe, a Swedish guest, and Uffe’s dog Liam went to fetch them.


Here you can see the sheep crossing the road. In the photo below you will see one of the two “accidental” lambs that were born earlier than intended. They kept up well with the rest of the flock.


We had an unanticipated encounter with some farm machinery, but all went well.


Uffe and Liam celebrated their success once the sheep were safely in their new field. The next move will be trickier because there will be a lot of confused little lambs by then.


After we were done with the sheep, I went by to say hello to the goats. Unbelievably, I have yet to go visit the cows! Quite ungrateful of me, considering how much I enjoy working with their wonderful milk.


There isn’t much else to report from here. I got to spend a fun weekend with Bryn in Copenhagen right when I arrived from Minnesota, before coming out to the farm. I experienced several very cool events, including “Science and Cocktails”, sponsored by physics students (the topic was cannabis), Friday Bar at the Hub (a shared work space for social responsibility and sustainability entrepreneurs), a feminist folk kitchen dinner, a saunagus session (a saunagus master guides you through four sessions in the sauna with various essential oils on the rocks interspersed with dunkings in ice cold water), and a trip to the Louisiana Art Museum with my two good friends Lise and Birthe.

I am also toying with the idea of running the Copenhagen marathon on May 18th. There is a Japanese guest here who is planning to run in it which is what has inspired me. I remember being in Copenhagen last year on the day it took place and feeling a pang of regret.

It was 1984, 30 years ago, that I ran my first of 11 marathons. I was 28, married, but no kids yet. So today I ran 11 miles to see how it would feel (hard, but doable) and have put together a training schedule that I think would get me across the finish line. I will see how it goes over the next month and if I don’t injure myself with the training, I think I’ll do it! Mark would tell me to go for it, I am sure.

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Vietnam: Ha Long Bay

As promised in my holiday blog posting, I return to a recounting of highlights from my summer travels. Sitting with my tablet on a frigid January Monday in Minnesota, it takes effort to recall the incredible heat of southeast Asia. In Vietnam in July, one showers and five minutes later is drenched in sweat once again. Unless located directly under a fan or in air conditioning, one sweats just sitting still. Imagine being a tourist and walking around to take in the attractions. Towards the end of the trip, I had an umbrella in one hand to shield me from the sun and a fan in the other to help evaporate my perspiration.

This tale is from early in the trip, however, before I had learned that cooling technique. Bryn and I had arranged that after visiting Sapa, we would return to Hanoi only long enough to join another excursion: this time to Ha Long Bay. As an aside, we used Vega Travel for both of our excursions and found them helpful and fairly priced. The Vega Travel office is located in Hanoi’s old quarter and conveniently has a room where you can leave luggage and a place to shower and change clothes (although you will just be sweaty again in five minutes).

As with the Sapa excursion, we opted for the longer version: two nights and three days. Arriving back from Sapa in the early morning, we caught a cab to Vega Travel where we clambered into a minivan along with other sleepy tourists and rode three hours to Ha Long Bay. There we boarded our first boat. Ha Long Bay is a UNESCO world heritage site for good reason. The bay includes about 2,000 islets that rise spectacularly from the water.



We stopped at one of the larger islets to visit Amazing Cave which had interesting rock formations. The ones pictured below looked to me like legs dangling down from the entrance.


On our way back to our boat, we spotted a monkey, who was also keenly aware of us.


We were afforded some time in the afternoon to kayak, which enabled us to examine some of the islets a bit more closely.




It was great fun and being on the water provided some relief from the heat.


After a night on the boat, we motored to Tip Top islet and hiked up for an incredible view.



Do I look hot?


After Tip Top, four of us off-loaded onto a smaller vessel, which took us farther into the bay.


Along the way, we admired more karst islets and passed by several floating villages.



People spend their whole lives on the water with regular commerce and activity apparent.




We stopped at Cat Ba Island and rode bikes into a national park.


Then we hiked for a bit and visited a cave that was used for shelter during the “American War”.



After a chance for more kayaking and a swim (I declined because the water must be really dirty with all those floating villages), we spent the night on Cat Ba Island, which appears to be a popular destination spot for upper class Vietnamese families. Bryn took this photo of kids going wild in bumper cars on the main city plaza. It was quite humorous.


It was in a Cat Ba Island restaurant where we saw this strange tribute to Sam Walton of Walmart fortune. Google translate comes up with:”As sales richest BEST”.


The next day, we were ferried back through Ha Long Bay, past karst islets and floating villages. A three hour minivan ride back to Hanoi concluded our adventure and we were once again surrounded by a sea of scooters.


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